I Spent $0 Setting Up My Compost Bin. Here Are the Four Options — From Free to $25
By Ku · Updated March 2026 · 8 min read
The first time I looked up compost bins online, I somehow ended up on a page selling a cedar three-bin system for $340. I closed the tab immediately.
The second time, I found a plastic tumbler for $189. Also closed.
It took me longer than it should have to figure out that you don't need to spend anything to start composting. The setups that work best for most home gardeners cost between $0 and $25 — and some of them are sitting in your garage right now.
I've used three of the four options I'm about to describe. I started with the free version, upgraded to the $5 wire bin, and eventually built the pallet bin that's still in my backyard today. Here's an honest look at all four, based on both personal experience and guidance from university extension programs across the country.
Before you choose a bin: The University of Florida Extension puts it well — the type of bin you choose is really a matter of personal preference. What matters more is location, the right mix of browns and greens, and consistent moisture. A $340 cedar bin won't produce better compost than a free wire circle if you manage both the same way.
Option 1: The Open Heap — $0, Zero Tools Required
Cost: $0
This is exactly what it sounds like: a pile on the ground. No structure, no bin, no assembly. According to the Missouri University Extension, a simple heap is the least expensive composting method available — and it works.
The pile needs to be at least 3 feet wide and 3 feet high to generate the internal heat necessary for active decomposition. Below that size, it won't heat up properly. Above 5 feet high, the weight starts to compact the material and restrict airflow, which slows things down and can create odor.
Who this is right for
- Anyone with a corner of the yard that's out of the way and not visible from the street
- People composting mostly yard waste (leaves, grass clippings) rather than kitchen scraps
- Anyone who wants to start today with zero investment
The honest downsides
- Material spreads over time. You'll need to rake it back in occasionally.
- Pests have free access. If you're adding kitchen scraps, burying them at least 8 inches deep is essential.
- Most city and county ordinances require compost structures to be set back 10 to 20 feet from property lines. A loose heap can be harder to manage within those limits. Check your local rules before you start.
Option 2: The Wire Circle Bin — $5 to $15
Cost: $5–$15
This is the setup I started with, and for good reason. The Missouri University Extension describes the wire-mesh holding unit as "inexpensive and easy to build" — their official recommendation for gardeners who want a simple, low-effort structure.
You need a single 10-foot length of hardware cloth or galvanized chicken wire (half-inch mesh works best) and a few zip ties or wire clips to close the circle. That's it. The result is a 3-foot diameter cylinder that holds material upright, allows airflow from all sides, and can be lifted off the pile entirely when you want to turn or harvest.
What you need
- 10-foot length of ½-inch hardware cloth or galvanized chicken wire (available at Home Depot or Lowe's for $8–$12)
- 4–6 zip ties or wire clips to close the circle
- Wire cutters (optional, for trimming sharp edges)
How to set it up
- Form the wire into a circle and secure the ends together with zip ties at the top, middle, and bottom.
- Place it directly on bare soil (not concrete — you want earthworms to be able to enter from below).
- Start adding materials. Layer browns and greens, keep it moist, and you're done.
Who this is right for
- Anyone who wants a contained structure without building anything
- Gardeners composting a mix of yard waste and kitchen scraps
- Small to medium yards where a neat appearance matters somewhat
The honest downsides
- No lid means rain can over-saturate the pile. Cover with a piece of cardboard or tarp during heavy rain.
- Open sides offer no pest protection. Kitchen scraps should still be buried, not left on top.
- Non-galvanized chicken wire will rust within 2–3 years. Spend the extra dollar or two for galvanized.
Option 3: The Pallet Bin — Free to $25
Cost: Free–$25
This is the setup I use now, and the one I'd recommend to most backyard gardeners. The Colorado State University Extension specifically highlights the wooden pallet bin as an "inexpensive and easy to build" structure, with construction costs typically running between $5 and $25 depending on hardware.
The reason pallets work so well: they're the right size (typically 40 x 48 inches, which gives you a bin well above the 3x3 foot minimum), they allow airflow through the slats, and they're genuinely free if you know where to look.
Where to find free pallets
Hardware stores (Home Depot, Lowe's), garden centers, grocery stores, furniture stores, and restaurants all receive regular pallet deliveries and are usually happy to give them away. Ask at the loading dock or check behind the store. You can also find free pallets on Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and Nextdoor almost anywhere in the country.
Basic setup (three-sided bin)
- Stand three pallets on their edges to form three sides of a square (back and two sides). Leave the front open for access.
- Secure the corners with wire, zip ties, or deck screws.
- Optional: Add a fourth pallet with hinges on one side as a door for the front.
- Place on bare soil in a shaded or semi-shaded location with good drainage.
Who this is right for
- Anyone who wants a durable, long-term setup without spending much
- Gardeners with a medium to large yard and regular kitchen and yard waste
- People who eventually want to expand to a two-bin or three-bin system (just add more pallets)
The honest downsides
- Wood eventually decomposes. Untreated pallets typically last 3–5 years before the wood starts to break down significantly.
- Slat spacing on some pallets is wide enough for pests to enter. A layer of hardware cloth stapled to the inside faces solves this.
- Sourcing and transporting pallets requires a vehicle that can handle 4-foot boards.
Option 4: The 5-Gallon Bucket Bin — $0 to $10
Cost: $0–$10
This is the indoor or small-space solution — ideal for apartments, condos, or anyone without a backyard. It's the method I described in the coffee grounds composting post, and it applies here as a full setup option for any kitchen scrap composting.
A standard 5-gallon bucket (the kind used for paint, available free at many hardware stores or for $3–5 new) with a lid and ventilation holes drilled in the sides handles a single household's kitchen scraps with no outdoor space required.
The University of Maryland Extension confirms that small enclosed bins like this are particularly effective for households generating under two pounds of food scraps per day — which covers the majority of American single and two-person households.
Setup steps
- Get a 5-gallon bucket with a lid. Many hardware stores give away used paint buckets for free if you ask.
- Drill or punch 15–20 holes around the sides (¼-inch diameter works well) for ventilation.
- Add a layer of shredded cardboard or dry leaves as a base.
- Add kitchen scraps, cover with more dry material, replace lid.
- Place on a tray or in a location where any leachate can drain without staining surfaces.
Who this is right for
- Apartment dwellers and anyone without outdoor space
- People composting small volumes of kitchen scraps only
- Gardeners who want an indoor staging bin before transferring to an outdoor pile
The honest downsides
- Limited capacity. A 5-gallon bucket fills up fast with a household that cooks regularly.
- Requires more frequent monitoring for moisture and odor than an outdoor pile.
- Finished compost needs to go somewhere — a container garden, raised bed, or neighbor's yard.
Location: The Decision Most People Get Wrong
Once you've chosen your bin style, where you put it matters almost as much as what goes in it. The Colorado State University Extension recommends placing your bin in a location that has these four characteristics:
- Partial shade: Full sun dries out the pile too quickly in summer. Deep shade slows decomposition in cool months. A spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal.
- Good drainage: Avoid low spots where water pools after rain. A waterlogged pile goes anaerobic fast and starts to smell.
- Near your kitchen: The University of Maryland Extension notes that convenience is one of the biggest factors in whether people actually compost consistently. If the bin is far from the back door, you'll stop using it. Close enough to reach in bad weather matters.
- 10–20 feet from property lines: Most municipal ordinances require this setback. Check with your local city or county before placing.
All Four Options at a Glance
| Setup | Cost | Build time | Best for | Lasts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Open heap | $0 | 0 min | Yard waste, hidden corner | Indefinite |
| Wire circle | $5–$15 | 10 min | Mixed scraps, small yard | 5+ years (galvanized) |
| Pallet bin | Free–$25 | 30–60 min | Regular composting, medium+ yard | 3–5 years |
| 5-gallon bucket | $0–$10 | 15 min | Apartments, no outdoor space | Indefinite |
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to buy a compost thermometer?
Not necessarily. The University of Maryland Extension suggests a simple hand test: push your hand into the pile. If it feels as hot as the hot water from your faucet, it's working well. If it's cool to the touch, it probably needs turning. Thermometers are useful for hot composting where you're trying to hit specific temperatures (130°F+), but for basic home composting the hand test works fine.
Can I put my compost bin on concrete or a deck?
You can, but you lose a significant benefit: earthworms entering from below. Worms are one of the most effective processors in a compost pile. If the bin is on a hard surface, the pile will still decompose — it just won't have worm activity unless you add them manually. For wire or pallet bins, bare soil contact is always preferable if you have the option.
How big should my compost bin be?
The minimum that generates useful internal heat is 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet. Below that, the pile struggles to warm up, which slows decomposition significantly. The Colorado State University Extension recommends going up to 5 feet by 5 feet if you have a lot of fall leaves and brown materials — larger piles with high carbon content need more volume to maintain heat.
Should I add soil to my compost bin?
A small amount — a single handful — when you're starting a new pile is useful. It introduces native microbes that help kickstart decomposition. But the Colorado State Extension cautions against adding large amounts of soil: it increases weight, decreases oxygen infiltration, and can suffocate the microorganisms doing the work.
Can I have more than one bin?
Yes — and if you compost regularly, you'll probably want to. A two-bin system lets you add fresh material to one while the other finishes. A three-bin system is what the Missouri University Extension describes as the most efficient for continuous production: new material goes in the first bin, gets turned into the second as it breaks down, then finishes in the third. For most households, two bins is the sweet spot.
The Bottom Line
The composting content on this site so far has covered a lot of what goes into a pile — coffee grounds, eggshells, banana peels, vegetable scraps, fruit peels. This post is about where all of that actually goes.
Pick the option that fits your space and your willingness to build something. Start with the free heap or the $10 wire circle if you're not sure yet. Move to the pallet bin once you know you're going to stick with it. Either way, you don't need to spend $100 to get started.
I'd love to know which setup you're working with — or which one you're planning to build. Drop a comment below. And if you've found a free pallet source that isn't on the list above, share it. That kind of local knowledge is genuinely useful to people just getting started.
— Ku
I'm a self-described life-hacker obsessed with making home and garden routines simpler, cheaper, and less wasteful. I'm not a horticulturalist — I'm a curious homeowner who tests things, makes mistakes, and writes about what actually works. This blog is part of my broader project: building a smarter, more self-sufficient home one small experiment at a time.
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